Does the city need two startup-minded Frenchmen to introduce it to the Italian joie de vie in pizza and pasta? not at all! Frowns, then, Giorgia Trattoria on Rosenheimer Platz, a French chain restaurant that has already implemented the concept in metropolises such as Paris, Madrid and London. The Parisian Mamma shop has more than 100,000 followers on Instagram. This platform is the platform on which many of the restaurants of the Big Mamma Group are designed. Influencers with equally large followings line up in front of wallpaper and mirrors, pursing their lips: “Love here!”
We lucked out and got a lovely table on the ivy covered frontage on a mild summer evening without a reservation. It’s clear that the team wants to fulfill aspirations. Even people who don’t appear to have thousands of followers suddenly appear. A big plus. With a wink, we were given business cards to leave a good review on the table setting, and the whole thing was so funny Mr. Rocket was immediately taken. The team is supposed to be big, 65 people, professional, fast and mostly charming and good humored at work. Good vibes seem to be the priority here: an infectious lightness, after the wine at last. Everything is a little more colorful, over the top, and more cheerful, as if the ventilation system were sprinkling in tiny psychoactive substances.
And then there’s the place itself, which looks like Lewis Carroll was commissioned to design a trattoria with italope-rockabilly vibes and flower power. Floral carpet, curtains, furniture; The entire restaurant is covered with the same bright colored fabric, and everything is reflected in the glass ceiling. Stage design rather than interior design. Bartenders in floral shirts work behind an almost marble counter, pecorino loaves are stacked in the open kitchen, Mossy and Daisy greet you from wine glasses. At the next table, the pot-bellied guest constantly calls the waiter Schetzlin, the talk show host leads the table with friends, there is a photo of pasta in pacorino bread, and the Heidhausen neighbors are still sitting here wondering what they are thinking. It has become Bella Italia. At night, the non-marble table tops are lit, which may give a hint of the food, but is this really about the food?
Everything is freshly prepared, small producers, this is how Trattoria promotes it. On our first visit we were impressed by the atmosphere, less so by the food. Well, truffle pasta (€19), homemade mafaldine, lots of truffles, good portion, served in a nice copper pan, nothing to complain about really. Sicilian aranicini (9), fried rice balls also go well with truffles, but they sound even better if you try calzoncini (7), dried cucumbers filled with “aubergine caviar,” simply the inside of aubergine. Baked red pepper cream that looks exactly like supermarket ajvar. Parmigiorgia (13), a homemade version of Parmigiana, tastes sweeter. No Whistle, Cheese Baked Aubergine in Tomato Sauce. Desserts are again very sweet, very southern Italian, torta al limon (7.50) with an arm’s height, very photogenic meringue top, chocolate cake (8.50) which is excellent with slightly bitter icing and a crisp base of salt. Caramel, something different from the ubiquitous liquid core.
It stands and falls with the will of worship: do we, reluctantly, participate in the fun that is set? A French chain masquerading as an Italian expert in big business fashion, all optimized for social media, phew, but… we can’t resist. Despite Parmigiorgia, the team is really good and we have a good night. As a victim of the concept that works so well, we look forward to our next visit. The effects of experience can fade over time, just like a clean carpet. But let’s wait for the moment.
And after a few nights he convinces the Georgian trattoria recipe: Apulian burrata (13.50) as a starter, we share almost sweet tomatoes, basil oil, salty salt – as it should be. Good product, well made. Properly called “Hakuna Patatas”, it refers to the perfectly fried seafood (26) accompanied by fried potatoes: it is deep and crispy on the outside, soft and tender. so good. The pizza comes out of the oven like Naples: soft crisp edges, thin in the middle. Majestic.
We tried “Nonna Norma” (13) with fried aubergines and salty dry ricotta, a good combination, and the truffle pizza (19) should not be hidden either. If we talk about truffle pizza, there is no dancing on the tables here at night. The trattoria remains a trattoria, despite the disco balls and mirrored toilet circles above the sink. Plus, they give you the chance to test whether your bare bottom is still Instagram-friendly. Anyone infected with a feel-good machine can judge kindly. And order another tiramisu.
Giorgia TrattoriaWeißenburger Straße 2, 81667 Munich, opening hours: Monday to Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 2:15 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3:15 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday from 9 am to 12 pm
The taste of SZ
The review of the restaurant “Taste” of Deutsche Zeitung It has a long tradition: it has been published weekly locally since 1975, and has also had a rating scale online for many years. From Munich, Science to Politics — From Munich, Science to Politics — About a dozen editors with culinary expertise write about the city’s gastronomy. The choice is endless, the Bavarian economy is as important as a Greek fish restaurant, an American fast food chain, a special bratwurst stand or a gourmet restaurant decorated with stars. Something special about SZ Tasters: the authors write under pseudonyms, often with recipes. Depending on how long the budget given by the editors will last, they enter the restaurant to check it out two or three times unannounced. Iron Ground Rules: One hundred days’ grace period for a new restaurant kitchen to familiarize itself with. And: Never get caught working as a restaurant critic – being able to objectively describe food and drink, service and atmosphere.